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Topic: Monitor Making Weird Noises...
Rodolphe
Posts: 4827
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Yea it has been happening for months now and only just realised it was my monitor, I thought it was coming from my box. Anywho it will make no noise when my desktop is showing, but if I maximise a window like web browser or a folder or something it makes like a faint metal scraping type noise - really hard to describe. When I minimise the window the noise goes again... When I first noticed the noise to me it sounded like something was scraping on one of the platters in my HDD, highly unlikely because the HDD would be f***ed by now so basically at that time I had nfi where it was coming from. I just realized now that it was coming from my monitor.

Just wondering wtf it could be and if anyone else has noticed something similar with any of their monitors ?? Just stick your ear up to the top of your monitor towards the back and have a listen.

The monitor itself is working flawlessly and always has, just wondering wtf the noise is and what it means :o)

I hope my monitor doesn't die, I will be stuck with a 14" if it does :/
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Reverend Evil
Posts: 59
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
I'm sure any weird noise coming from your monitor isn't gonna be good. Is it still under warranty? My monitor's f***ed at the moment. Occasionaly the screen desides to refresh itself without me doing anything to it. Really sucks when playing a game and the screen goes black for a couple of seconds and then turns back on again.
Suhaib
Posts: 1409
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Very strange, no noises for me. Open it up and see!!!!!!!!
Rodolphe
Posts: 4830
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Nah the monitor is over 3 years old, definately out of warranty.
Primal
Posts: 474
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Does the picture act up at all when it happens?
Suhaib
Posts: 1410
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
My monitor goes all psyco when i put my mobile phone next to it, but i guess that happens to everyone.
Rodolphe
Posts: 4831
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
No the picture is fine all the time.
Primal
Posts: 475
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
What i mean is, slight shimmering of picture or slight loss of vertical or bightness futtering.. etc...
Primal
Posts: 476
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
no?, i wouldn't be to worried about it then, you could shut it down and open up the back of it, a cable could be touching the E.H.T. transformer and it rattles a bit or the protective metal shell could of warped a bit and rattles as well..
orbitor
Posts: 1009
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
errrm, be REALLY careful if you open your monitor ok?
Suhaib
Posts: 1415
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Sounds like you had a bad experience orbitor.
Rodolphe
Posts: 4832
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Nah I won't be opening it unless it stops working.
Hunter
Posts: 2538
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Let's turn this into a "why is my monitor doing..." thread :). Why does my monitor picture sometimes lose its horizontal setting and pinch? Like its [ ] then its )(. I figure its a lose wire/cable or dry joint or something, because giving it a decent whack on the side eventually returns the picture to normal.
Reverend Evil
Posts: 60
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Ah, there's nothing like having a good "WHACK", hey!

It's funny when you've got an expensive comp that starts doing weird s*** and you think giving it a good belting can fix it. I once gave my case a good ol' kick and now the front is cracked. Oh well.
Hunter
Posts: 2540
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Nah I would never hit the box - too many parts in it that don't like physical force (eg hdd). Monitor is fairly sturdy, so long as you don't REALLY hit it hard.
Exocet
Posts: 1213
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Yeah, you really shouldn't open up and f*** around with a monitor. I've heard several stories and met a guy who's been shocked by an open monitor that was unplugged.
Hunter
Posts: 2542
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Well that might have something to do with the huge capacitors storing high voltages inside... of course you shouldn't open a monitor unless you're a skilled monitor technician.
Primal
Posts: 477
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Yes, sounds like dry solder joints hunter...

You can get zapped by a monitor(or T.V.) if you go near the altar, which is the large rubber plug going into the top of the tube, as the tube acts like a big capacitor and charges at 6kv to 30 kv depending on the size of the tube, you discharge the tube using a probe/resistor combo, attaching it the the ground wire running up the back of the tube and shoving it under the altar, some dodgy techs use two long screwdrivers, one touching the groung line, one shoved under the altar and then touched together, "crack", it is discharged...

On the main p.c. board there is a big capacitor in the power supply section but it normally has a leakage cicuit attached to it to 'leak' the current away when it is unplugged...
It is a zender diode/resistor combo which is also part of the power proctection circiut while it is running...

As for taking them apart..
First i must say that taking apart monitors is a bit tricky and if you had no training in it, don't try it as you could snap the back of the tube and destroy your whole monitor...

THIS IS A GUIDE TO SHOW YOU HOW HARD IT IS, THIS IS NOT A GUIDE TO TAKE ONE APART, SO DON'T TRY THIS...
I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE IF YOU TRY THIS AND STUFF UP YOUR MONITOR...

Monitors come apart in stages...
First to get the back off, it has 4 large screws in all 4 back corners, you will need a long shaft philips screw driver for it...
some monitors have a smaller screw above any input plugs and/or under the back of the monitor or maybe a white push type plug at the bottom...
Once the back is off you will see the anti-radiation/ground shell...
it is a big metal box incaseing the whole back of the monitor...
To take this off you need to unclip/unscrew in places around the front and sides of the shell, it comes off as one whole piece...
this will expose the back tube and main p.c. board...
The neck of the tube is very fragile and will snap if not handled right...
The neck p.c. board is held tight on the tube by another ground shell, it has a large tighting srew(philips head) on the neck itself towards the front of the monitor, you have to loosen it (counter clockwise), then slowly pull off the back neck p.c. board disconnecting any ground wires on the way...
Then the main p.c. board, the bottom of it is incased in a plastic mounting attached the the front monitor case by 2 screws, the p.c. board has some screws and clips to take off plus about 5 to 10 cables to disconnect, including the altar cable going from the E.H.T transformer to the back of the tube(discharge it first) and one going the the yoke on the back of the tube, do not try to take the yoke or the adjusting magnets on the neck off as theses are factory set and you will stuff the purity up...
Make a daigram of all the cables and where the go...
Now you can get to the bottom of the main p.c. board where 80% of the time(if it is old) there will be dry solder joints, repair by resoldering the joints...
Don't touch any of the adjustment "pots" on any p.c. boards or you will stuff up the monitor...
Put monitor back together in reverse order...

Phew.. hard work eh??


scuzzy
Posts: 2423
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
good luck puting it back togeather :D
powderingmynose
Posts: 59
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
does ur face feel warm when the monitor makes these noises? or do u feel slightly euphoric? or do you hear voices?

umm, are your testicles glowing?

if not then don't worry about it, get some ear plugs or turn the sound up...

try smacking it heaps too... the monitor that is :|

Rodolphe
Posts: 4836
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
It isn't very loud at all, I can deal witht he noise. I was just wondering what it was. Also wtf is a dry solder joint ??
orbitor
Posts: 1020
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Dunno about you, but I can't stand dry joints :)
Primal
Posts: 478
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
heh, the solder is a lead and tin mix(with a bit of flux) which bonds the components to the copper tracks on the circuit board...
The solder contracts and expands a little when it heats up and cools down, after a while the solder drys up and cracks, this with bumping around and the weight of the components, causes the cracks to go all away around the legs of the component to form "dry joints" i.e. the component no longer contacts with the circuit board...
When you hit a faulty unit with dry joints, the thing works because you have caused the components to bump back onto the contact of the circuit board...
All you have to do is get a soldering iron, some solder and melt new solder onto the old dry cracked solder to fix it...
Zaratul
Posts: 506
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
run run RUN....
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